【亚洲·孟加拉】传统的坚达尼编织艺术 Traditional art of Jamdani weaving（2013年）

Jamdani（坚达尼编织艺术）是一种图案生动的纯棉面料，传统上由达卡各地的工匠和学徒在手摇织机上编织而成。Jamdani（坚达尼编织艺术）纺织品将复杂的设计与柔和或鲜艳的颜色结合在一起，成品服装具有高度透气性。Jamdani（坚达尼编织艺术）是一种耗时且劳动密集型的织造形式，因为其图案丰富，直接在织机上使用不连续纬纱技术制作而成。如今，由于这种面料因制作莎丽而流行，纺织业蒸蒸日上。莎丽是国内外孟加拉女性的主要服装。Jamdani（坚达尼编织艺术）纱丽是身份、尊严和自我认可的象征，为穿着者提供文化认同感和社会凝聚力。织工们形成了职业身份，并为自己的传统感到自豪；他们享有社会认可，并因其技能受到高度尊重。少数纺织大师被认为是传统贾姆达尼图案和编织技术的传承者，并将知识和技能传授给弟子。然而，贾姆达尼织布主要是由父母在家庭作坊中传播给孩子的。织工——与纺纱工、染色工、织布工和其他一些辅助工艺的从业人员一起——形成了一个紧密联系的社区，具有强烈的团结、认同和连续性。

2013年度列入人类非物质文化遗产名录。

来源：联合国教科文组织亚太地区非物质文化遗产国际培训中心

Jamdani is a vividly patterned, sheer cotton fabric, traditionally woven on a handloom by craftspeople and apprentices around Dhaka. Jamdani textiles combine intricacy of design with muted or vibrant colours, and the finished garments are highly breathable. Jamdani is a time-consuming and labour-intensive form of weaving because of the richness of its motifs, which are created directly on the loom using the discontinuous weft technique. Weaving is thriving today due to the fabric’s popularity for making saris, the principal dress of Bengali women at home and abroad. The Jamdani sari is a symbol of identity, dignity and self-recognition and provides wearers with a sense of cultural identity and social cohesion. The weavers develop an occupational identity and take great pride in their heritage; they enjoy social recognition and are highly respected for their skills. A few master weavers are recognized as bearers of the traditional Jamdani motifs and weaving techniques, and transmit the knowledge and skills to disciples. However, Jamdani weaving is principally transmitted by parents to children in home workshops. Weavers – together with spinners, dyers, loom-dressers and practitioners of a number of other supporting crafts – form a closely knit community with a strong sense of unity, identity and continuity.

Included in the list of human intangible cultural heritage in 2013.

Source: UNESCO International Training Center for intangible cultural heritage in the Asia Pacific Region