【亚洲·塔吉克斯坦】查坎：塔吉克斯坦刺绣艺术 Chakan, embroidery art in the Republic of Tajikistan（2018年）

查坎刺绣艺术是在棉织品或丝绸上用彩色线缝制装饰品、花卉图案和象征性图案的艺术。这一传统在塔吉克斯坦的妇女和女孩中很普遍。Chakan（查坎）刺绣用于装饰服装和家居用品，如女式衬衫、头巾、窗帘、枕头、床罩和摇篮被单。刺绣以象征性的描绘和与周围自然和宇宙有关的神话图像为特色，表达了人们的愿望和希望。这个练习包括选择织物和线、绘制装饰品、创建针尖图像和缝制衣服。过去，这些线是用棉和丝绸纤维制成的，并用植物和矿物制成的天然颜料着色：现在，查坎裁缝用织物线做针线。在Khatlon地区，Chakan（查坎）衬衫是一种重要的新娘礼服。新郎戴“tāqi”（一种带有查坎刺绣的国家头巾），塔吉克妇女和女孩在传统节日穿查坎礼服。刺绣产品体现了美、优雅和人与自然的统一。年轻一代从他们的母亲、祖母和姐姐那里学习艺术，通过所谓的“ustod shogird”（硕士生）方法也会集体传播。个体工匠在集市和服装店销售他们的产品，这是一种重要的赚钱方式。

2018年度列入人类非物质文化遗产名录。

来源：联合国教科文组织亚太地区非物质文化遗产国际培训中心

The art of Chakan embroidery is the practice of sewing ornaments, images of flowers and symbolic drawings with colourful threads on cotton or silk fabrics. The tradition is widespread among women and girls in Tajikistan. Chakan embroidery is used to decorate clothing and household items such as women’s shirts, headscarves, curtains, pillows, bedspreads and coverlets for cradles. The embroidery features symbolic depictions and mythological images relating to the surrounding nature and cosmos, which express people’s wishes and hopes. The practice involves selecting the textile and threads, drawing ornaments, creating needlepoint images and sewing clothes. In the past, the threads were prepared from cotton and silk fibres and coloured with natural paints made with plants and minerals: nowadays, Chakan dressmakers use fabric threads for needlework. In the Khatlon region, the Chakan shirt is an important bridal dress. Grooms wear a ‘tāqi’ (the national skullcap featuring Chakan embroidery), and Tajik women and girls wear the Chakan dress during traditional festivals and holidays. The embroidered products are an expression of beauty, elegance and the unity of humans and nature. The young generation learn the art from their mothers, grandmothers and older sisters, and transmission also occurs in groups through the so-called ‘ustod-shogird’ (master-student) method. Individual craftswomen sell their products in bazaars and through dress shops, providing an important way of earning.

Included in the list of human intangible cultural heritage in 2018.

Source: UNESCO International Training Center for intangible cultural heritage in the Asia Pacific Region