【欧洲·法国】阿朗松的针织花边技艺 The craftsmanship of Alençon needle lace-making（2010年）

阿朗松的针法是花边技艺中一项罕见的技巧，多见于法国西北诺曼底阿朗松。阿朗松针织花边之所以与众不同，是因为对针艺的要求非常高，而且需要很长时间才能完成（每平方厘米需要七小时工作量）。使用该技术的镂空织品在民间和宗教生活中常起到装饰的用途。成品是把设计的元素精心缝制在一起的网眼状织物。织绣的过程包括前后几个阶段：首先在羊皮上绘制图案并沿着图案轮廓用针点刺，形成图案的大纲和针织的基底，接着先用线把图案的轮廓缝出来，然后再在轮廓中间加以填充产生阴影，再采用各种装饰手法，最后用绣针制造浮雕的效果。随后用镊子把羊皮纸揭下来，对织品进行修剪，最后用龙虾的爪子进行抛光处理。每位阿朗松花边绣工都掌握了织绣的每一个阶段，这样的水平只能通过学徒期间不断进行实践才能达到。全面掌握阿朗松针花边技艺需要七至十年的培训事件。学习过程完全仰仗于专业花边绣工与学徒之间的密切关系，而且传承的实现也只能是通过口头传授和实践教学。

Alanson's stitching is a rare technique in lace craftsmanship, more commonly found in the northwestern French Alanson of Normandy. Alanson knitted lace is different because of the high demand for needles and the fact that it takes a long time to complete (seven hours of work per square centimeter). The hollowed fabric that uses this technology often plays a decorative purpose in folk and religious life. The finished product is a mesh fabric that carefully sews the elements of the design together. The process of weaving and embroidery includes several stages before and after: first draw patterns on sheepskin and stab with needles along the contour of the pattern, form the outline of the pattern and knit the substrate, then first sew out the contour of the pattern, and then fill in the middle of the contour to produce shadows, and then use a variety The parchment was then removed with tweezers to trim the fabric and finally polished with the lobster's paws. Each Alanson lace embroidery has mastered every stage of weaving and embroidery, such a level can only be achieved through the continuous practice during the apprenticeship. Full mastery of Alençon pine needle lace craftsmanship requires 7-10 years of training events. The learning process depends entirely on the close relationship between the professional lace embroidery and The Apprentice, and the realization of the inheritance can only be through oral instruction and practical teaching.