【亚洲·日本】结城绸生产工艺 Yuki-tsumugi, silk fabric production technique（2010年）

Yuki tsumugi是一种日本丝织技术，主要在东京以北的Kinu河沿岸的Yuki市和Oyama市发现。该地区气候温暖，土地肥沃，是种植桑树和养蚕的理想之地。Yuki tsumugi技术被用于生产蓬吉丝绸（也被称为生丝）——一种轻质保暖的材料，具有独特的刚度和柔软度，传统上用于制作和服。这种材料的生产分为几个阶段：用手将丝线纺成纱线，在染色前用手将成束的纱线扎成图案，然后用后张力织机编织丝绸。Yuki tsumugi织布中用于纱线的丝线是由空的或变形的蚕茧制成的，否则无法用于生产丝线。这种回收过程在支持当地蚕业社区方面发挥着重要作用。传统的竹木制作技术由本巴竹木编织技术保护协会的成员传播。该协会直接参与维护社区内代代相传的纺织、染色和编织传统。它通过交流技能、培训年轻织工和实践示范来促进Yuki tsumugi的传播。

2010年度列入人类非物质文化遗产名录。

来源：联合国教科文组织亚太地区非物质文化遗产国际培训中心

Yuki-tsumugi is a Japanese silk-weaving technique found principally in Yuki City and Oyama City, along the Kinu River, north of Tokyo. The region boasts a warm climate and fertile lands, which are ideal for the growth of mulberry trees and sericulture. The Yuki-tsumugi technique is employed to produce pongee silk (also called raw silk) – a light and warm material with a characteristic stiffness and softness, traditionally used to make kimonos. Production of the material includes several stages: silk floss is spun into yarn by hand, with patterns added by hand-tying bundles of yarn before dyeing the yarn, then the silk is woven using a back-tension loom. The silk floss for the yarn in Yuki-tsumugi weaving is produced from empty or deformed silkworm cocoons, otherwise unusable for the production of silk yarn. This recycling process plays a significant role in supporting local sericulture communities. The traditional techniques to produce Yuki-tsumugi are transmitted by members of the Association for the Preservation of Honba Yuki-tsumugi Weaving Technique. This association is directly engaged in maintaining traditions of spinning, dyeing and weaving, passed down from generation to generation within the community. It promotes transmission of Yuki-tsumugi through exchange of skills, training of young weavers, and practical demonstrations.

Included in the list of human intangible cultural heritage in 2010.

Source: UNESCO International Training Center for intangible cultural heritage in the Asia Pacific Region