【非洲·乌干达】乌干达树皮衣制作 Bark Cloth Making in Uganda（2008）

树皮衣制造是居住在乌干达南部巴干达王国的巴干达人的一项古老工艺。在600多年的时间里，在世袭的首领卡波各兹的领导下，恩冈部落的手艺人为巴干达皇室和其它社会成员制造树皮衣，首领居住在位于姆皮基地区的马沃科塔的恩桑瓦村庄里。手工艺人在湿润的季节里采集木图巴树的内层树皮，然后使用不同类型的木锤敲打，经过漫长而艰辛的过程，使其纹理柔软舒适并使它呈现出均匀的陶土的颜色。手工艺人在一个开放式的工棚工作，以防止树皮干燥得太快。男女款式的树皮衣都象宽袍，女式树皮衣的腰间有装饰带。普通树皮衣的颜色是陶土色。国王和酋长的树皮衣被染成白色或黑色，并以不同的方式穿着以显示其地位。这种衣服主要在加冕礼和治疗仪式、葬礼和文化集会上穿着，同时也可做门帘、蚊帐、被褥和储藏袋。巴干达王国几乎每个村庄制造这一树皮产品的手工作坊都很兴隆。随着19世纪阿拉伯商队引入棉花贸易，树皮衣的生产开始变缓并几近消失，树皮衣似乎只剩下文化的内涵和精神的功能。尽管这样，在巴干达，树皮衣作为特有的政治和文化传统的象征，仍被高度认可。近些年来，树皮衣的制造在巴干达王国得到特别的鼓励和促进。

The manufacture of bark clothing is an ancient craft of the Baganda people living in the Kingdom of Baganda in southern Uganda. For more than 600 years, under the leadership of hereditary leader Caboguez, the craftsmen of the Ngang tribe made bark clothing for the royal family of Baganda and other members of society. The leader lived in Mawokota in the Mpiki area. In the village of Ensangwa. The craftsman collects the inner bark of the wooden Tuba tree in the wet season and then uses different types of wooden hammers to strike. After a long and arduous process, the texture is soft and comfortable and gives it a uniform clay color. Craftsmen work in an open shed to prevent the bark from drying too fast. The bark clothing for men and women is like a wide robe, and the women's bark has a decorative belt around the waist. The color of ordinary bark clothing is terracotta. The bark coats of the kings and chiefs are dyed white or black and are worn in different ways to show their status. These clothes are mainly worn at coronation and treatment rituals, funerals and cultural gatherings, as well as curtains, mosquito nets, bedding and storage bags. Handicraft workshops for the manufacture of this bark product in almost every village in the Kingdom of Baganda are prosperous. With the introduction of the cotton trade by the Arab caravans in the 19th century, the production of bark clothing began to slow down and almost disappeared. The bark clothing seems to have only the cultural connotation and spiritual function. Despite this, in Baganda, bark clothing is still highly recognized as a symbol of a unique political and cultural tradition. In recent years, the manufacture of bark clothing has received special encouragement and promotion in the Kingdom of Baganda.