【美洲•秘鲁 】塔奎勒岛及其纺织工艺 Taquile and its Textile Art（2008年）

塔奎勒岛位于秘鲁的安第斯高原、的的喀喀湖，是普努部落的一部分。本文主要涉及塔奎勒岛的文化空间及其纺织艺术，它构成不分性别、年龄的人们每天的活动内容，他们每个人都要穿这些纺织品。岛屿因其山脉和台阶式的地况、多种多样的野生和种植的植物而著称，它的石路和石拱也很有特色，有些是西班牙殖民者之前的遗迹。
　　20世纪50年代以前，塔奎勒人一直与大陆隔绝，部落与家族的观念非常浓厚，这从部落生活和稳固的集体决策的组织形式就能反映出来。塔奎勒岛上的纺织习俗可追溯到古老的印加、普卡拉、考拉文明，至今仍鲜活地保留着西班牙殖入前的安第斯文明的痕迹。除了艾马拉人和西班牙人以外，塔奎勒人也讲一种秘鲁的本土语言——盖丘亚族语。
　　所有纺织品都用殖民前的脚踏式织布机织出。最有特色的衣服叫做“扣勒”，带有御寒耳罩的编织帽和记述一年仪式、农业活动的日历腰带。日历腰带对部落传统和历史的描述方式，吸引了很多研究者。尽管塔奎勒纺织图案已经引进了新的、当代的符号和图像，但它仍然保持着传统的风格和技术。
　　塔奎勒岛上有两所学校：一所小学，采用盖丘亚族语和西班牙语双语教学；一所职业学校，学习塔奎勒手工艺，对塔奎勒传统的生存和延续有着巨大贡献。
Located on Peru's Andean plateau, lake titicaca, the island is part of the punu tribe. This article mainly deals with the cultural space and textile art of taguilar island, which constitutes the daily activities of people of all genders and ages, each of whom has to wear these textiles. The island is famous for its mountains and terraces, its wide variety of wild and cultivated plants, and its distinctive stone roads and arches, some of which are relics of pre-colonial Spain.
Until the 1950s, the taguilar people had been isolated from the mainland, with a strong sense of tribe and family, as reflected in tribal life and the firm organization of collective decision-making. The textile customs of taquel island can be traced back to the ancient Inca, pucara and koala civilizations, and the traces of Andean civilization before Spanish colonization are still alive today. In addition to the aymara and Spanish, the tagellan speak quechua, Peru's native language.
All textiles are woven by treadle loom. The most distinctive garments are called buckles, woven hats with earmuffs to keep out the cold, and calendar belts to record the year's rituals and agricultural activities. The way the calendar belt describes tribal traditions and history has attracted many researchers. Although taquelle textile patterns have introduced new, contemporary symbols and images, it still retains traditional styles and techniques.
There are two schools on the island: one primary school, which is bilingual in quechua and Spanish; A vocational school, learning the arts and crafts of taguilar, has made a great contribution to the survival and continuation of the tradition of taguilar.